Category Archives: hiking in spain

Camino Day 15: Castrojeriz to Boadilla

9-15-2016:

hontanas-to-fromista-elevation-mapWe leave Castrojeriz only to see a huge, steep hill ahead of us. What’s up with that? We are in the meseta, so shouldn’t the way be relatively flat?  Trudging halfway up the hill I look back and the view is breathtaking!

camino-1020705eOnce we tackle the hill, the rest of the way is easier and I can see for miles. It’s windy and the temps are cold, so poor Joan is still suffering from Hiking Pants Envy wishing her legs were covered, too.
camino-1020743eOur bed tonight is in Boadilla and many bunk beds are crammed into a room with a ladder leading to a loft above. I feel much younger now having discovered one of our roommates is well into his 80’s and has completed over 20 caminos. He always takes the bed by the ladder in the loft when he is in this albergue, so up he goes.

camino-1020753eThe garden area includes interesting metal sculpture art and murals.
We top the night off with a delicious Pilgrim meal.

Top three photo picks of the day:camino-1020751e camino-1020747ecamino-1020745e

Camino Day 14: Hornillos to Castrojeriz

September 14, 2016: Having survived the horrendous dust storm coming into Hornillos yesterday, we appreciate the weather today as we leave town. However, the temps have dropped considerably, Joan’s legs are getting cold, and she is enviously eyeing long pants on the other pilgrims.

We walk a while with Linda, from Ireland, who excitedly relates her experience of staying at the albergue run by the in-laws of Emilio Esteves’ son. Pretty cool.

We check into Albergue Ultrea in Castrojeriz and are greeted by a warm, gregarious gentleman who makes his guests feel welcome.camino-1020645ecrWe stroll around town and up the hill to view the castle ruins high above…camino-1020652e …along with bodegas built into the hillsides.

Coming back from our exploration we bump into an Australian pair and receive a nice hug they deliver from Randy. Little did we know, Randy ran into these friends (as he sadly made his way to the bus station in Burgos) upon leaving the Camino and us behind. Another shout-out to Sinaed from Ireland who has also become part of our Camino family. Buen Camino!camino-1020659eUnusual decor ~  Looking up, we see a wine-press which is demonstrated in an animated fashion (See video) followed by a tour of the bodega down below the albergue.

Top three photo picks of the day:

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Camino Day 13: Burgos to Hornillos

9-14-2016:  It’s a dreary Tuesday and we bid farewell to Randy who is taking a bus from Burgos to Madrid to catch his flight home.

camino-1020484We trudge through parque El Parral which, we decided, was the park in the film, The Way.

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As you can see by the map, it isn’t totally flat terrain, yet. We are expecting much flatter terrain, but find the ups and downs to be just fine.

camino-1020503 This man reminds us of Randy as he is so proud of the hair brush he found along the way. Joan is not jealous as she already has a nice comb.

No reservations, but we have our minds set on Albergue Hornillos so we hustle along and get in line for a bed. Joan and I are lucky and snatch the 2nd and 3rd to the last beds while Alabama John (Young man with the cowboy style hat on the video) gets the very last bed. Bonus is a grocery store nearby and little old church to tour next door.The Camino did provide!

camino-1020558Our beds are near this kitchen where we drink our wine, cook supper  and visit with the other pilgrims.  These experiences are some of my favorites of the camino – listening to other perspectives and journeys in life.

unnamed Joan is in a tiny room with another lady next to this  dorm room and I enjoy this view from a top bunk near them. Nice and cozy. I listen to the conversations in the kitchen from my bed and soon I am lulled to sleep. Buenas Noches!

Top three photo picks of the day:camino-1020547e camino-1020539e2 camino-1020531dmv

 

Camino Day 12: Exploring Burgos

9-12-2016:  Today we are tourists  exploring the city of Burgos, Spain. Click on the link below for a short highlight video :

camino-1020370Construction on the Cathedral began in 1221 and was completed in 1567 which included a hiatus of nearly 200 years with the work resuming on the Burgos Cathedral towards the middle of the 15th century and would continue for more than 100 years. The work done during this time consisted of embellishments of great splendour, assuring the Cathedral’s continued world-renown status. ~unesco.org  Audio tour is full of historical facts and I find it difficult to absorb all of the grandeur and history. Truly immense and I’m in awe.

camino-1020366eshWe are seeing more beggars in the tourist areas of town.  Scam artists? Hmmm…

camino-1020464We climb the hill and explore massive fortifications of the rebuilt Castillo de Burgos. Dating from the 9th century, the castle has a turbulent history, suffering a fire in 1736 and blown up by Napoleon’s troops in 1813. There’s a small museum featuring the history of Burgos.

camino-1020466The impressive view from the castle reveals an aerial view of our hike yesterday and we can see why the Camino path into Burgos seemed endless. We also view the route we will take out-of-town tomorrow as we face the meseta.

camino-1020443A special happy hour tonight since it’s Randy’s last night with us.  We improvise by making a tablecloth from a disposable sheet Randy saved from a previous albergue. This will aid clean-up since we aren’t suppose to eat in the room.( Sh-h-h-h… don’t tell!) Add bread from a local bakery washed down with very cheap (0.62 euro?) box wine and life is good. Don’t judge…

We meet Jim and Mary Ann (Leascomadventures.com) for the evening meal. Last time we see this lovely pair as they will proceed down the path ahead of us from now on. Buen Camino!

Top three photo picks of the day:

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Camino Day 11: Ages to Burgos

September 11, 2016:  We leave the quaint little town of Ages, Spain with anticipation of reaching the large town of Burgos along with a little dread.  The last stretch will be along busy roads, but we continue to simply follow the yellow arrows. san-juan-ortega-to-burgos-elevation-map

This is Randy’s last day of hiking the Camino as he will be returning to the life of a farmer in Minnesota. Harvest awaits…

Top three photo picks of the day:

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Camino Day 10: Belorado to Ages

September 10, 2016:  Belorado to Ages ~ 28 kilometersbelorado-to-san-juan-de-ortega-elevation-mapOver-achievers today as we go a few kilometers past the elevation map above.

We find beds in the Ages Municipal Albergue and wander the streets exploring the village.camino-1020241eWhile exploring Ages we stumble upon a small museum of miniatures that Marcial Palacios creates of regional sites, as well as historical methods of labor in the village and on the farm.camino-1020239e The passion that Marcial puts into his works and animated explanation of each miniature  is  interesting as I try to comprehend with my limited Spanish skills along with gestures. Best salesman ever as we purchase a small, lightweight toy.camino-1020229eJunk sculptures line stone fences and fill the yards of this unique street in Ages. I couldn’t find info about these displays so your guess is as good as mine.camino-1020253eShout out and buen camino to Jim and MaryAnne Leas of leascomadventures.com.

Top three photo picks of the day:

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Camino Day 9: Santo Domingo to Belorado

September 9, 2016:  As we put our boots on this morning we share a moment with a forlorn Damion from the UK as he contemplates whether to continue his Camino with very sore blisters or call it quits. We’ve enjoyed his wit, humor and banter, so are hoping he continues. Final answer…?  A very somber ending as he makes plans for catching a flight back home.  Camino hearts are breaking for this well liked and kind gentleman as we all know how hard it is to accept defeat.  Safe journeys, Damion.

Today should be close to a 25 kilometer day so we leave the albergue early, making our way down the dark streets of Santo Domingo.
santo-domingo-to-belorado-elevation-map

We enjoy the company of Roger and Nancy from Colorado and interesting conversation makes the day click by so much faster. Thank you for sharing your day with us and we are curious as to your Camino experiences after we parted ways.

What… am I hallucinating?  A huge stuffed animal is hiking towards me!
camino-1020148ecr Following is a link to a short video explaining their project:  osoperigroso

camino-1020147eSmiles on the Way is a site that has information about these two and their walk.

We arrive in Belorado finding only top bunks with no bed rails available, so Joan will face her ultimate challenge tonight. The room is very tiny and there is no room to throw her mattress on the floor for sleeping. Will she sleep walk and fall out of bed or not sleep at all? We will see…

A bonus tonight is meeting and spending meal time with charming Alexandra who lives and works in Malega. I am so tired that I can hardly speak, but the table conversation still flows freely.  Buen Camino, Alexandra!

Top three photo picks of the day:

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Camino Day 8: Najera to Santo Domingo

September 8, 2016:  A short video of the day…

This morning finds us departing in the dark hoping to find available beds in Santo Domingo. We are meeting more Camino friends as we trudge along and cherish these conversations and chance encounters. You know who you are!!! We look forward to and enjoy the e-mails updating us on their Camino journeys and life in general.

najera-to-santo-domingo-elevation-map

camino-1020049eBest welcoming committee on the Camino with wine in a jug, tapas and friendly staff at the Santo Domingo de la Calzada albergue operated by the Spanish Confraternity. Nice backyard area with outdoor laundry facilities, kitchen and spacious lounge/dining area. A bonus is that many of the pilgrims we have encountered along the way are staying here.

20160908_121838_resized-2ecrApparently, English and German-speaking pilgrims need rules, so we make good use of the wonderful laundry facilities in the backyard. Randy is extremely  impressed with Julio’s Scrubba Portable laundry bag (Click on link).

camino-1020077ecrOur Irish hospitalera enjoys friendly conversation with Randy and leaves him with a bro hug. camino-1020061ecrA tour of the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada includes viewing a live rooster and hen. A gothic henhouse was built during the middle of the XVth century to keep alive a hen and a rooster in memory of the most famous of Santo Domingo´s miracles. Click on this link:  Hen and the Rooster Miracle for the full story behind this live display. I was told they switch out the fowl every 14 days, so I’m guessing chicken soup is on the menu every couple of weeks.camino-1020081eAfter wandering down our street we pathetically gaze inside a restaurant at 6 p.m. and inquire as to evening meal service. 7:30 p.m. is the meal time and our sad, hungry faces must appeal to the gentleman’s heart-strings as he pauses and decides to make an exception.  He rushes around and quickly sets a table for us. The best paella EVER!!!camino-1020083eThe Irish hospitaleras invited us to a prayer service in the basement of the albergue, so this early meal time means we return in time to attend.  Hard to stay awake, but glad we participated since we need all the help we can get. Bonus is this piece of artwork on the wall of the prayer room.

Top three photo picks of the day:
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Camino Day 7: Logrono to Najera

September 7, 2016:  Scroll down for a short video of the day.115467

We stock up on water and food because for the next few hours of the journey we will not have much for shops until the town of Navarrete 13 km away.  camino-1010948eThis will be a thirty kilometer day, so we get an early start to beat some of the heat.camino-1010965eRandy finds a little store in Navarette with everything under the sun crammed inside and he needs a bandana to protect his ears and neck from the scorching sun. Hanging around the counter, he takes forever to make a decision… could it be the posters below the counter that distract him? (Click on the image for a larger viewing window.)
camino-1010969ePlump grapes are plentiful and tempting as we pass through numerous vineyards and hear recordings of birds in distress and canon explosions to keep  birds away from the ripened fruit. We have seen many small tractors with spray tanks behind heading out to the vineyards. No wonder there are no flies or bugs of any kind on the grapes. It’s not very healthy to be eating unwashed grapes that have been in contact with a pesticide besides the fact that it would be stealing. Enough said.camino-1010988eInteresting “bee hive” hut along the trail would provide shelter, if necessary. It appears to be of modern construction and quite messy inside from garbage left by people. The mom in me wants to lecture… Pick up after yourselves!camino-1020002eRandy and Joan are strategizing in the cute little Vino y Camino apartment that Joan found in Najera.  We are in heaven with kitchen facilities, washer/dryer provided, our own bathroom/shower and they even provided us with a bottle of delicious red wine. (Hence, the name.) All in all a good value.

Top three photo picks of the day:

camino-1010958ecr camino-1010974e camino-1010990eA-a-h-h! Buen Camino!

Camino Day 6: Torres del Rio to Logrono

September 6, 2016:  Scroll down for a short video with some Creedence Clearwater Revival plus proof that Joan can still stop traffic!

etapa-07-camino-frances

As you can see by the elevation map, we start the day with a hill work-out while the rest of the day appears to level out a little. However, the heat continues to sap our energy as we plod down the path.
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We meet a friendly, interesting young man named Julio from California  sitting by the side of the road switching out socks due to blisters. Conversations flow throughout the day about observations and plans while on the Camino, as well as life, taking our minds off the heat. We often wonder about the rest of his journey to Santiago as we lose track due to a different pace as we do with many people we meet. A good lesson learned:   Live in the moment and make the best of it while you can.

We also meet a new friend, Julius, today and have been in touch with this talented photographer/animation artist from Poland living in Dublin. It was great to talk about photography with someone who understands me.
camino-1010918ecrGraffiti in the tunnels plus the shade provide a little respite from the heat.

20160906_083733rWe find beds tonight in the Apostol Hostel in Logrono with a familiar scene on the wall of our room. I don’t think this means I can cross the Statue of Liberty off of my Bucket List.

Top three photo picks of the day:camino-1010878ecamino-1010915ecamino-1010929e